Two of the presenters in the first afternoon panel were no shows and the essentialist line the third presenter took was exhausting so K. and I complained and kvetched at a table in the reception room while we ate our lunches, me a bagel from home, K. a dish of barley salad from the train station. I can’t believe they gave me a fork instead of a spoon, she complained, now people will think I’ve never eaten barley salad before.

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